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Restaurant review: Contemporary French brasserie Clos Pasoh makes dumplings that demand attention

Lest we forget, dumplings are universal. Just about every culture has its own filled dough or pastry package. In Asia, there’s xiao long bao, gyoza, har gao, siew mai, banh bot loc, wonton, mandu, momo and joshpara. From other parts of the world, you’ll find ravioli, tortellini, empanada, pierogi, pelmeni, coxinhas, kreplach, maultaschen and more you’ve never heard of. So it’s not entirely unexpected to find dumplings in a French brasserie. What’s surprising about Clos Pasoh, however, is its commitment to the way of the wrapped morsel. Out of the nine dishes (including two desserts) we had...

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