Words by Benjamin Russell
As I walked down the cobbled path from our front garden to the street to start another morning commute, I felt something I hadn’t felt in long time, that distinct early morning chill in the air that nips at the skin, as if winter is tapping you on the shoulder to let you know it will be with you in five minutes and you should start thinking about getting the winter coats out of the attic. Not that I could complain, we’d had some of the hottest weather on record for the UK and the summer had been an uninterrupted stretch of sunshine since the start of spring.
The seed was planted nonetheless: I wanted a summer finale before the sun turned to snow.
That evening I browsed through various cruise itineraries and one immediately jumped out. Departing from Miami, the MSC Seashore would take in Jamaica, Grand Cayman, and Mexico, before finishing off the trip at the private island of Ocean Cay. A few weeks later we were en route to Heathrow.
Day one: Miami
As our taxi crossed Port Bridge to Dodge Island, home to the city’s cruise terminal, we caught our first sight of the MSC Seashore towering above the buildings which lined the harbour. Only launched in late 2020, it is capable of carrying almost 6,000 passengers and has a New York theme running through it.
We entered the ship’s impressive atrium, decked out in sparkling silver and glass, and surrounded with bars, restaurants and shops, which were all bustling with excited passengers checking out what their new home had to offer.
Making our way up to the top deck, we grabbed a drink from the Sky Bar to enjoy while we discovered more of what was on offer but as we turned the corner we found a hot tub with incredible views of the city and couldn’t resist getting in. Our explorations were over for the time being, but what better spot to watch the first sail-away of the trip?
The Seashore cast off just as the sun started to set, illuminating the glass of the buildings in a beautiful pink light as the skyline drifted lazily by. Eventually the city’s towers gave way to the golden expanse of South Beach, marking the Florida coast as it stretched into the mist of the horizon before itself shrinking out of sight as we headed out into the ocean. Total relaxation descended over us in a way in which a cruise offers better than any other type of trip, a very real sense that you are leaving everything behind.
It was almost time for dinner, so we returned to our cabin to change, before heading to one of the ship’s four main restaurants, Central Park, which offers fine dining in stylish surroundings evoking the glamour of the Art Deco era. We finished the night with cocktails at the Brooklyn Café jazz bar before heading to bed.
Day two: Sea day
One of the things I liked most about the itinerary was that our first full day onboard was a sea day. It’s a great way to get your bearings, wander at your own pace and relax after long flights.
We started with breakfast at The Marketplace, a vast buffet serving breakfast, lunch, dinner, and snacks throughout the day.
After a bit of exploring we went to the very top deck to check out the Yacht Club, MSC’s exclusive luxury ‘ship within a ship’, which boasts lavishly appointed suites including an exclusive 24-hour butler service and a dedicated concierge. Members can also enjoy the elegant Top Sail Lounge, located right at the front of the ship and offering amazing views as well as a stylish restaurant.
There’s also the One Pool Deck, a sun decking boasting a swimming pool and whirlpool baths, and even its own bar which was starting to serve lunch when we happened upon it. Taking it as a sign, we ate before grabbing a couple of drinks and two loungers and sat back to offset some jet lag as we sailed past the north Cuban Coast, its undulating landscape picked out under dramatic skies.
After dinner we took in our first show at the Madison Theatre, which offers productions every night, including four full-scale theatrical performances. That evening we heard the distant rumble of thunder, so we went back to our balcony to watch the shards of violet lightning crack the darkness of the Caribbean sky, illuminating the blackness of the rolling sea below.
Day three: Jamaica
After fully recharging the day before, I was excited for our first stop: Ocho Rios. We booked an excursion through MSC and were greeted by our brilliant guide, Mama Maxine, as we boarded our air-conditioned bus. She gave us a quick lesson in Jamaican patois, urging us to give a ‘ya mon!’ if we were following along.
Being from the UK, we felt right at home as, driving on the ‘correct’ side of the road, we wound our way through lush palm-tree lined lanes, dotted with local homes and holiday villas, but Mama Maxine reassured our international companions that ‘the left side is the right side and the right side is suicide’. She also gave us some of the history of the area we were in, the Parish of St Ann, which was home to possibly Jamaica’s most famous son, Bob Marley, and before that Christopher Columbus, who spent a year there after getting shipwrecked.
We stopped at Dunn’s River Falls and Park for something a little more active. Our group followed a path through luscious vegetation to a white sand beach where the waterfalls empty into the Caribbean Sea. A series of terraced falls stretched out in front of us, at about 180 ft high and 600 feet long. Our guides asked us to hold hands and form a human chain to keep us steady against the force of the rushing water as we made our ascent. In just over an hour, and with a lot of effort, we made it to the top, all in agreement that was unlike anything any of us had done before.
It was time for lunch and we drove into Ocho Rios town for delicious Jamaican food at the Almond Tree Restaurant, which we enjoyed on the terrace with vast ocean views. Afterwards there was time for a bit of exploring, so we swam in the warm Caribbean sea for the first time of the trip.
On our way back to the ship, our bus stopped to give us the chance to stop off for some shopping, we opted to try out a local bar instead before heading back.
After boarding our ship, we tried out the Aurea Spa, which offers a range of treatments as well as some amazing rooms, several simulating various types of rain, storms, and even snow, which you can rub into your skin. It’s ok though, there are also plenty of saunas, steam rooms and whirlpools to heat up in.
Dinner was also a little bit different, we ate at Butchers Cut, a speciality American steakhouse serving premium cuts of Angus beef.
What’s nice about the ship is the range of different bars on offer, and you can stumble across stuff going on. We found ourselves watching a band in the Uptown Lounge. After their set had finished, we went in search of more music and headed to the Seashore Bar at the centre of the ship, where we saw out the night enjoying martinis while listening to a pianist.
Day four: Grand Cayman
I stepped out onto the balcony to see what new view greeted us. To my surprise, land was further away than expected and a fleet of tenders was approaching our vessel, giving a clue about how we would be getting ashore. Given the number of people on board, I thought it might be a slow process, but the capacity of each boat was large and everything ran like clockwork.
Our guide for the day’s excursion was Janet, and we had also booked this through MSC. First stop was the governor’s house before taking pictures on Seven Mile Beach, our ship visible in the bay. We also took in a traditional island house before arriving in Hell. But fear not, the tour hadn’t taken a drastic turn for the worse, we had arrived in an area named Hell, after, as one story suggests, a British official saw the island’s striking limestone rock formations and exclaimed ‘this is what Hell must look like’.
Whatever the origin, one enterprising resident has made the most of this and opened a shop dedicated to all things diabolic, serving customers while dressed as Lucifer himself. After a surprisingly polite interaction with the prince of darkness we wished him well, and headed off to sample local rum cake and patties at the Tortuga Rum Company outlet, before visiting the Cayman Turtle Centre. At the heart of the facility is a huge lagoon home to the biggest turtles weighing up to 600lbs, but there is also the chance to touch and paddle with some of the smaller ones.
Next, we exchanged our bus for a boat and sailed to a sandbank which is home to a school of wild stingrays, which we were not only able to see, but swim with.
That evening we danced the night away at the silent disco in Le Cabaret Rouge before discovering that, as well as doing food throughout the day, The Marketplace is the spot to find late night pizza.
Day five: Mexico
As we made our way out of the cruise terminal, there was no mistaking where we had docked. An enormous green, white and red flag fluttered on the shoreline and a gigantic sign said ‘Welcome to Mexico’.
There were plenty of excursions on the Island of Cozumel, including trips to gorgeous beaches and Mayan ruins, but after a busy two days we fancied exploring at our own pace, and took to the town. We strolled along the esplanade lined with shops, bars and restaurants before we found the pretty town square.
Venturing into the back streets, we found a boutique shop selling its own chocolates and another selling Mexican shirts. I decided to buy one as it was the ship’s white night party (where everyone wears… well, white) and I was in need of an outfit. We spent several more hours wandering, before stopping for a tacos and margarita break while watching the town prepare for its dia de los Muertos celebrations.
That evening we were still in the mood for all things Mexican so had dinner at Hola!, the ship’s informal Mexican cantina. As well as more tacos, I ordered one of the amazing beer cocktails to go with my tequila marinated steak. For a proper Mexican end to the meal I ordered from the impressive list of tequilas and mezcals. I opted for a Nuncano, which had a smokiness not dissimilar to an Islay whisky.
Music from the Seashore Bar drifted up as white night was kicking off, so we went and joined the crowds partying under the stars on deck 18.
Day six: Sea day
After a much needed lie-in, we stepped onto the balcony and had a think about how to use our day. Looking down onto deck eight, which is home to long whirlpools flanking the side of the ship, inspiration struck, today we would do a pool crawl. Five minutes later we were in the very pool we had been eying up, once again gazing at Cuba as we sailed past the south side of the island, the buildings of Havana clearly visible.
You won’t run out of places for a dip on MSC Seashore and there’s something for everyone. Families will enjoy the Jungle Pool and Pirates Cove Aquapark, party people can head to the Long Island pool, while those looking for something a bit more tranquil will find what they are looking for at the back of the ship, home to the incredible adults-only Infinity Pool.
Having dried off, we went to have a go at some of the virtual experiences on offer. We were able to get behind the wheel of an F1 car, sail through rapids on a rafting simulator, and, my personal favourite, save the world from Zombies in the 5D cinema.
Day seven: Ocean Cay
One of the most amazing things about cruising is the ever changing view, and we ate breakfast enjoying possibly the most spectacular vista of the trip. We’d arrived at Ocean Cay, MSC’s private island and marine reserve. Its golden sand studded with palm trees and surrounded by brilliant jade water.
It’s hard to imagine that before MSC opened this paradise to its customers in December 2019, it was just an industrial wasteland left over from the aragonite sand mining industry. They spent more than $200 million dollars developing the site, removing 1,500 tonnes of scrap metal and replacing it with 75,000 plants and shrubs, 5,000 palm trees, as well as working to preserve and protect the coral reef.
For visitors there are several beaches to choose from, a lagoon offering for super-safe swimming and water sports as well as plenty of options for food and drinks. Yacht Club guests also get the VIP treatment, with a designated private beach and Ocean House for dining.
After a day soaking up the sun, we headed back on board to watch the spectacular light show on the island’s lighthouse, before staff who live on the island waved us off as we set sail.
We made the most of our final dinner and show, had a few drinks in the sports bar and headed back to our balcony to enjoy the view of the night sea and listen to the roar of the waves for one last time.
In the distance we could see the lights of Miami flickering on the horizon, reminding us that our time was almost up. As we reflected on an incredible week, and the prospect of embracing the winter that would greet us on our return to the UK, we knew it wouldn’t be too long before we were back again.
For more information on MSC Cruises, visit msccruises.com