For most of us, January is all about abstinence and good behaviour but, for the fashion and jewellery industries, it couldn’t be a more glamorous time of year. The end of January brings with it the first major (and most fantastical) fashion week of the year – couture – and with it a first glimpse at the show-stopping new high jewellery collections.
Distinct from fine jewellery, which is the bread and butter of most of the houses featured below, high jewellery is when brands bring out their big guns. Think the biggest, most jaw-dropping stones, the finest craftsmanship and, accordingly, the highest price points. Got a few hundred thousand to drop on a pair of earrings? Step right this way to discover the incredible new high jewellery collections debuting in 2023.
Graff Tribal
Let’s kick things off with something truly stellar: a whopping 50-carat D Flawless diamond. The oval-cut stone, which measures 30mm x 20mm, was unveiled unset by Laurence Graff in 2022, with its final form now revealed during Paris Couture Week. Set into a necklace featuring design elements from the house’s Tribal collection, the final piece boasts more than 264 diamonds totalling over 150 carats. There’s no word on price but, should you leave with change from £25 million, you’re probably doing well.
Elsewhere, Graff used the occasion of Couture Week to display a series of colourful jewels set with a series of world-class stones. Not to be missed? A pair of white diamond earrings each featuring a Fancy yellow diamond weighing over 20 carats and a white gold and diamond ring showcasing an emerald cut unheated Ceylon sapphire clocking in at 30.73 carats.
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De Beers Metamorphosis
Inspired by Mother Nature – and the process of change and evolution that remains her only constant – the first chapter of De Beers’ new Metamorphosis high jewellery collection, Prelude, plays with four repeating motifs representing the four seasons. Warmed by the earthier tones of rose gold, yellow gold and brown and yellow diamonds, the collection is a masterful display of goldsmithing and gem setting, with each motif highlighting a different skill, including fil couteau (knife-edge setting), serti neige (snow setting) and perlage (gold beading).
Among the more contemporary pieces is a stunning ear cuff that arcs gracefully along the outer edge of the ear with each of the four motifs suspended from a series of graduated round-cut diamonds. At the end of each strand is a titanium chrysalis, all of which can be removed and worn as part of a charm bracelet. Not quite enough diamond for you? You’ll also find the four motifs hugging a 3.06 carat D-flawless solitaire diamond on a true gobstopper of a ring.
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Dearest Dior
Marking ten years since its Dear Dior collection, and five years since Dior Dior Dior, the Dior maison once again returns with a high jewellery collection that pays homage to its iconic founder and the extraordinary savoir-faire that goes into each of its couture collections. With Dearest Dior, artistic director Victoire de Castellane has turned her attention to a haute couture staple – lace – reinterpreting it in a series of pieces imbued with the lightness and intricacy of their inspiration.
Across the collection, fine metalwork sees mounts disappear, leaving rubies, sapphires, pearls and tourmalines to appear as if floating (and thus benefiting from an unrivalled abundance of natural light). Elsewhere, mesh sheets duplicate the delicacy of lace and, just like the original, drape and adapt to the curves of the body while providing the strength need to suspend some serious stones.
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Chaumet Liens Inséparables
Rather than introducing an entirely new collection, for 2023, Chaumet has added a new line to its famed Liens range. Introduced in 1977 to celebrate the human bonds often commemorated with jewellery, the collection has included both high and fine jewellery iterations, with each one featuring a signature intertwining lines motif.
With Liens Inséparables, Chuamet builds on this history with sensuous, romantic pieces underpinned by undulating or articulated designs which allow them to be worn as close to the skin as possible. Among the highlights are four necklaces – two long, two short – picked out in white gold, diamonds and, on two, sapphires. Appearing as if a ribbon of jewels has been gracefully draped around the neck, elegant white diamonds of up to two carats provide the perfect punctuation point.
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